A place with many stories
By Ingrid Telsemeyer
Mine tunnel, underground mine, brickworks, sandstone quarry, machine factory, wreath workshop, scrapyard, museum – the Nachtigall Colliery has served many purposes over the past 300 years. Geological conditions provided the basis for much of this.. The sequence of layers of shale clay, coal and sandstone characteristic of the Carboniferous period supplied the raw materials.
The Origins
According to records, the first application to extract coal from a seam in the ‘Hettberger Holtz’ was submitted in 1714. At first, several farmers from the region were shareholders in this field. In 1743, Baron Friedrich Christian Theodor von Elverfeldt bought all their shares for 140 Reichstaler. The male descendants of the noble von Elverfeldt family went on to spend more than a century as entrepreneurs in the coal business.
Levin von Elverfeldt (1762–1830) was among the pioneers of Ruhr region mining. When he took over his father's business in 1787, he became heavily involved in mining and the coal trade, accumulating an array of mining properties. By the end of the century, he owned shares in 39 mines along the Ruhr. However, his hopes for business success were not fulfilled. In 1825, Ludwig von Elverfeldt took over a heavily indebted estate. He was responsible for the transition to underground mining, construction of a horse-drawn railway for transporting coal and the expansion of the colliery.
Tunnel construction
View from an overlook near Herbede on the Ruhr facing Hardenstein Castle and the Witten estate(circa 1780). Two mine openings can be seen on the slope to the right.
Numerous other collieries near Hettberg mined coal beside and above one another. At first, the prevailing mining technique was tunnel construction. Horizontal tunnels were dug into mountains and coal was extracted by hand.
To reach deeper seams, ‘underground structures’ were built. From there, coal and water were transported through sloped shafts in buckets and crates to the surface. Access to these tunnel mines was via so-called ‘Mundlöcher’. Some of which can still be seen today in Muttental.
Mining operations of this early phase differed greatly from modern mining in terms of organisational structure. In the 1750s and 60s, for example, a maximum of eight miners worked in the Nachtigall mine, who – as was the custom – were only employed on a daily or weekly basis, depending on the order situation. Around 1800, ten miners worked in various roles at the Nachtigall tunnel mine: coal cutters and rock cutters for tunnel construction and extraction, as well as cart drivers who used pushcarts to transport coal from the mining site to the tunnel mouth. In 1806, the old carts were replaced with wagons conveyed by rail.
Mining the Prussian Way
Prussia attempted to bring the privately operated mines in the Ruhr under state control, boost coal sales and secure its royal tithe –compulsory taxes – through new laws and administrative structures, including the 1738 establishment of the Märkisches Bergamt (Märkish Mining Authority) in Bochum.
After conducting inspections, the mining supervisors and appointed experts concurred in their negative assessments of mining in the Mark Brandenburg. They attested to disorder in the ‘mining economy’ and overexploitation. After an inspection tour of 28 Ruhr mines on behalf of the Prussian King Frederick II, Chief Mining Councillor, Friedrich Wilhelm Graf von Reden, criticised the poor state of mining in the County of Mark (Grafschaft Mark). He lamented the mining authorities’ lack of control and inadequate accounting, summarising: ‘Everyone does what they want!’
The 1766 Revised Mining Regulations established the state’s administration of coal mines in the Ruhr region . However, the so-called ‘executive principle’ (Direktionsprinzip) could only be implemented gradually.
Into the depths
In order to reach deeper coal seams, sinking of the first deep mining shaft at the Nachtigall Colliery began in 1832. This had been eagerly awaited, but was nevertheless an experiment with an uncertain outcome, particularly due to difficulties caused by the water-bearing rock. Heavy inflows could no longer be managed with hand pumps. This could only be achieved with the help of steam engines provided by the Friedrich Harkort Engineering Institute in Wetter – innovative technology of early industrialisation.
The 1835 mine operating report read: ‘This month, the long-held wish of many has finally been fulfilled. Despite many complaints and obstacles, and thanks to providence, the new Neptun machine shaft has been sunk to its destination, the Nachtigall seam, without any serious injuries to the workers.’
In order to cover the investment costs for buildings and machinery, some of the surrounding tunnel mines had previously joined together to form a contractual alliance, United Nachtigall (Vereinigte Nachtigall). The Eleonore & Nachtigall, Theresia, Wiederlage, Aufgottgewagt, Nordflügel, Braunschweig Nordflügel and Turteltaube Nordflügel mines cooperated, but initially remained independent operations. In March 1835, mining began at the Neptun shaft. New jobs were created for operating the steam-powered mining and water drainage machines, and by 1836, two guards and two miners were employed there.
Nachtigall United Mining
In 1851, Ludwig von Elverfeldt sold his Steinhausen estate and his shares in the coal mines to a group of wealthy Dutch investors who saw mining in the Ruhr region as a promising investment opportunity. They took over a coal mine that was equipped with state-of-the-art technology and excellent coal reserves.
The investors advanced expansion by investing in technical equipment, transport links to the colliery and the consolidation of Vereinigte Nachtigall, Vereinigte Nachtigall & Aufgottgewagt, Wiederlage and Theresia collieries into Nachtigall United Mining(Vereinigte Nachtigall Tiefbau). In the 1850s and 1860s, the consolidated mining operation employed between 300 and 500 miners. At that time, it was one of the largest mines in the region in terms of both employment and coal production.
The mine now had three shafts: the Neptun shaft, the Catharina shaft of the former Theresia colliery and the Hercules shaft. Addition sinking turned the latter into the main extraction shaft of the colliery.
In the years that followed, the colliery expanded its surface facilities and built, among other things, a boiler house, the machine house (which still stands today) and the workshop buildings. The colliery always used the most modern methods available: in 1855, it introduced the use of horses to haul underground..
The Ruhr mining industry’s most powerful steam engine at the time (500 hp) went into operation at Nachtigall in 1857. In 1876, modern rope transport was introduced: from then on, miners descended the shaft in cages suspended by rope. In 1876, the Hercules shaft reached its maximum depth of 450 metres. Coal production peaked at 100,000 tonnes in 1878. Nachtigall Tiefbau Colliery had expanded to an extent that did not increase significantly before it was closed in 1892.
The mine struggled with heavy water inflows until its closure. The 1871 annual report of the Nachtigall Tiefbau Colliery addressed the vexing issue of water on numerous occasions, as water inflow repeatedly caused the colliery to suffer production losses. Operational disruptions became more frequent. By 1882, only 295 miners were still working at the Nachtigall mine. Coal production declined.
The merger with Helene Tiefbau Colliery on the other side of the Ruhr in Heven seemed like a lifeline. Plans were made to mine new seams under the Ruhr Valley, and the hope was that this would make it easier to finance the necessary investments. However, the colliery overextended itself with new investments and was forced to file for bankruptcy in 1887. Finally, in 1890, the Dortmund Mining Company purchased the mine. They were interested in the rich mining fields of Helene. Nachtigall, on the other hand, was to be abandoned due to its lack of profitability. The Dortmund Mining Company dissolved the Helene-Nachtigall union.
Coal mining ceases
On February 23rd, 1892, so-called ‘robbery’ of Nachtigall began: machinery and other mining equipment were sold off. On October 14th,1891, the Wittener Zeitung (Witten’s newspaper) wrote about the Nachtigall Colliery’s impending demise :
"Unfortunately, it won't be long before our old Nachtigall Colliery, which provides bread and livelihoods for so many residents of our town (...),works its last shift and shuts down. The main reason for the shutdown is the water calamity (...). In 3-4 months, all the machinery will likely be dismantled, leaving the colliery under water and at a standstill. We are pleased to announce that all workers and officials who were laid off on October 1st have found other work and positions."
Within a short period of time, three neighbouring underground mines in the Hardenstein district – Louisenglück, Nachtigall and, most recently in 1906, Ver. Bommerbänker Tiefbau – ceased operations. They were unable to compete with the new, larger mines in the Emscher and Hellweg zones. They had better storage conditions, the capacity to coke coal for iron smelting and had larger coal deposits.
W. Dünkelberg brickworks and sandstone quarries
Wealthy construction entrepreneur, Wilhelm Dünkelberg, purchased the colliery site in 1892. In the years that followed, he built a steam-powered brickworks on the site, which began production in 1897, as well as a factory for manufacturing brickmaking machinery. He extracted sandstone and slate from his quarries.
Most of the colliery buildings were demolished. The machine house, workshop buildings and a boiler house chimney were preserved and repurposed. Dünkelberg had two ring kilns built on the site of the Hercules shaft. He obtained slate clay, the raw material for brick production, from a neighbouring quarry that belonged to his establishment. Dünkelberg had a tunnel, now known as the Nachtigall-Stollen, dug through the Hettberg specifically for this purpose.
The brickworks produced up to eleven million bricks annually for the construction of industrial facilities and houses. Coal mining also continued: Dünkelberg used the remaining coal reserves, including those at his small Gottlob Colliery, to supply his businesses with coal during the shortages that followed the world wars.
From scrapyard to museum
In 1963, the brickworks ceased operations, followed later by the sandstone quarry. Small businesses such as a wreath workshop and, most recently, a car recycling company used the buildings and grounds. The workshop building served as residential housing. Discarded cars, tyres and oil drums blanketed the Nachtigall compound. Pedestrians were soon confronted with a bleak image of decay.
Committed citizens, landmark conservationists and the city of Witten finally recognised the historical significance of the facilities. In 1979, the Landschaftsverband Westfalen-Lippe (Westphalia-Lippe Regional Association) passed a resolution to establish a decentralised Westphalian Industrial Museum, with the Nachtigall Colliery as one of the museum's three collieries.
What was taken over was a historic site with buildings in ruins. The remains were damaged, partially burnt-out and repeatedly repurposed buildings from the mine and brickworks. There was no longer any machinery – instead, there were interesting ‘contaminated sites’. Layer by layer, systematic excavations brought many discoveries to light: scrap metal from the recent past, bricks from the ring kilns of the brickworks, carbon fossils and a historic stone railway sleeper from the Muttentalbahn.
After years of scouring and securing evidence, excavating the Hercules shaft and surrounding areas, restoring buildings, searching for suitable exhibits and developing the museum concept, in 2003 the Landschaftsverband celebrated the opening of what was then called the Westphalian Industrial Museum – now the LWL Museum Zeche Nachtigall.
The themes of the permanent exhibition focus on the site’s geology and industrial uses over the past 300 years. The museum's favourable location in the midst of important geotopes led the National GeoPark Ruhrgebiet to establish its first information centre here in 2014.